Cooking from the South West Coast of India

The air in a side street with an Old Delhi- bhatti is a thick, sensory symphony of charcoal smoke and toasted spices that defines the country’s rugged culinary soul. These traditional clay or brick ovens serve as the glowing heart of the sidewalk, where vendors skillfully slap hand-stretched dough against the scorching inner walls to produce blistered, smoky tandoori rotis. Beside them, skewers of Bhatti da Murgh—chicken marinated in a dark, robust blend of garam masala and yogurt—are nestled directly over the embers, gaining a signature charred exterior that far surpasses the refined versions found in high-end restaurants. Crowding the same stall, large iron cauldrons simmer with Punjabi chole, the dark, tea-infused chickpeas glistening with a layer of spicy oil and topped with fresh ginger juliennes. For the bustling crowd, these bhattis are more than just cooking stations; they are communal landmarks where the heat of the fire and the tang of the street food offer a fleeting, flavourful respite from the chaos of the city.